Nothing Could Be Finer Than To Be In North Carolina
3/8 Dick's Creek Gap to Standing Indian Shelter - 16.7 miles
We got up fairly early having gotten my pack ready the night before for two nights sleeping on the trail. The goal for today is Whiteoak Stamp at 12.6 miles. Steve drives me to the trailhead and drops me off before heading for home. His first week hiking with me is done. It's been great having him along.
The weather is a little warmer and the sky is clearer. The elevation chart for this section tells me I'm going to be doing a lot more climbing than we've done so far.
About lunch time I cross the state line from Georgia to North Carolina. There's a modest sign on the trail to let me know when I've crossed the state line. I was expecting something a bit more impressive, but I'm glad to know I've made it further than 25% of the people who started this year.
Shortly after this I reach Bly Gap and meet a group of Boy Scouts out for the weekend earning their backpacking merit badge. I stop and eat my lunch with them and chat for a while with the scoutmaster. They're from Georgia and getting the boys ready for a trip to Philmont. I'm familiar with Philmont from my time in scouting many years ago. It's like Mecca for Boy Scouts.
They kindly offer to filter water for me and I gladly accept. I'm not paying close attention and they fill my entire 3 liter hydration bladder. I take it with thanks, although I'm now carrying 6 pounds of water for the rest of the day. I'm still thankful for the favor.
After Bly Gap there's a trail junction with a very unPC name...it gave me a chuckle.
And, of course, there are still great views along the way.
I get to Whiteoak Stamp around 2:00 and still have energy left, so I decide to soldier on to the shelter at Standing Indian Mountain. I was curious how the mountain got its name which you can read about here.
Before reaching the shelter there's a sign at the trail junction warning about bear activity in the area and the need to use bear canisters in this area...now you tell me. I have a bear canister in the van, but it's big and heavy so I don't use it unless it's needed. I did my standard bear hang at the campsite and no issues with bears. I guess my guardian angel is still looking out for me.
When Steve was hiking with me the day was filled with conversation about family, old friends, and what's been going on in our lives over the last forty years. We had a lot of catching up to do. Now on my own I'm focused on my own thoughts. Today I'm appreciating how much I'm enjoying this trip. I am where I want to be, doing what I want to do. Our goal from now on is to do that again tomorrow, and the next day, and the day after that, and everyday for the rest of our lives. Wherever that takes us and whatever we choose to be doing there. This is my new mantra.
3/9 Standing Indian Shelter to Long Branch Shelter - 16.2 miles
Last night was cold again, but not uncomfortable. I took along some fleece socks that did a decent job keeping my feet warm enough to be able to sleep a little more soundly. The weather is still cool and the sky is overcast.
The goal for today is the campground at Betty Creek Gap in 11.3 miles. There's still a fair amount of climbing along the way, but I reach the campsite again around 2:00 and really want to have a short day tomorrow. Long Branch Shelter is 4.4 miles from here, so I decide to go for that. There's a group of young people, high school or college age boys and girls out for a backpacking trip and heading the same way as me. They're carrying big packs but start out ahead of me and are quickly out of sight. I just can't keep up anymore at 64. But wait...as the climbing starts I meet them again. They've stopped to catch their breath. I exchange pleasantries and move along at my 64 year old pace. Apparently slow and steady does win the race.
I approach the fire tower at Albert Mountain, but to get there is a short climb that ascends very steeply. Now this is more like what I'm used to climbing in the White Mountains...I just wish it wasn't coming at the end of the day. The fire tower just happens to be at Mile 100 of the AT, so a good milestone to check off today.
The views from the tower are spectacular.
Today my thoughts are about the tradition of AT hikers using trail names. I'm starting to write down names of the people I meet so I can have a better chance to remember them. Today I met Moondog, Two Speed, Ray Sunshine, Peanut Butter, Half Stick, and Tree Man. Then there was Ralph who, like me, doesn't use a trail name. Invariably I'm asked what my trail name is and I say I don't have one and would prefer just to go by John. This is usually followed by a look of disappointment and concern that not having a trail name is like having a disability of some kind. A lot of the hikers are here to be part of the community in addition to doing the hike itself. I'm enjoying meeting new folks on the trail and getting to know some of them, but I have my own community. Angelika is with me and providing lots of support. It was great hiking with Steve last week and I'm looking forward to meeting up with more friends and family on the trail as I make my way north. That's my community and I value it highly.
And I heard a new bit of trail lingo today: hiker hungry. It's the insatiable appetite you might get after you've been hiking long distances. Half Stick asked me today if I was hiker hungry yet. Not yet, but I've been trying to eat more calorie dense foods to avoid that. So far so good.
3/10 Long Branch Shelter to Winding Stair Gap - 7.3 miles
A short day today as I approach Winding Stair Gap and a meet up with Angelika. There was some light rain at the shelter starting around 4:00 AM and more rain in the forecast for later in the day. I decide to get an early start and avoid getting caught in a storm before I get off the trail.
Along the way, more trail magic. This is becoming a welcome sight after many miles of walking. Today I enjoyed a second breakfast of fresh brewed coffee, a hot dog, and peanut butter pretzels. I met a gentleman here who recently moved from New Hampshire and runs a hostel in Franklin, NC. We spoke for quite a while about living in New Hampshire and what brought him out to North Carolina. I'm always meeting new and interesting people.
Back on the trail I ran into this guy. I don't think he was just playing possum.
I met Angelika right around lunch time, so we decided to stop for lunch before heading to the campground. We both had the meatloaf special at Miss Louisa's. A really excellent meal for a mere $10.99. Maybe I have hiker hunger after all.
While we're in town we stopped at Outdoor 99. I need new gloves and we ended up speaking at length with the boot expert here who tried to fit Angelika with a pair of hiking boots (no luck, her feet are just too wierd) and I got a new pair of insoles for my hiking boots.
The next few days I'll be slack packing. That will give my feet a little bit of a break and I can put some easy miles behind me.
3/11 Winding Stair Gap to Burningtown Gap - 14.6 miles
I have to admit, it gave me little chuckle.
The climb up Wayah Bald was long and steady. I was glad to be hiking with just a day pack today. My feet were the happiest.
Wayah Bald was the highlight of the day. At the top is a stone observation tower with 360 degree views.
On such a beautiful weather day the vista was quite impressive. You could see all the way back into Georgia along the path we followed to get here.
Once I managed to find where the trail continued behind the tower, I met up with Angelika on the trail and we made our way back to the van. She wasn't happy she had to drive up a narrow dirt road to get to the trail. I'll try to be more careful about choosing meeting spots in the future.
I passed several new faces on the trail today and ran into Peanut Butter and Half Stick after I finished my lunch at Wayah Bald. A hiker named Optimist told me about getting soaked in the shelter during the torrential rain we had almost a week back when our car was almost hit by a falling branch. The wind was so strong it was driving the rain right into the shelter. They had to go into town the next day and dry off before heading back on the trail.
My feet are getting pretty sore now. I think I just need to keep walking through it. There's rain in the forecast showing up this coming weekend. That might be a good time to take a rest day.
3/12 Burningtown Gap to Nantahala River - 12.7 miles
It was 32 degrees at the campground this morning, so we were off to a chilly start. Angelika was nervous about driving up the narrow dirt road that leads to the trailhead. We had to negotiate our way past a car coming the other way, which made matters worse. We managed to make it to the trailhead safely and she was able to drive herself back to the campground without further incident.
Meanwhile, I started ascending Copper Ridge Bald. On the way I met through hiker Tea and her two friends who had been dropped off just before me. That was the car we met coming up the road. I meet new through hikers all the time, but don't often see the same folks more than a couple days in a row. The others are either hiking faster or slower than me, so we are just passing each other on the trail and maybe spending some extra time together at the shelter for the night.
The weather was perfect for hiking again today. Clear skies, cool in the morning but warming up to about 70 in the afternoon. It was a day to take in some spectacular views at the many outlooks along the way.
There was an exceptional view from an abandoned fire tower on Wesser Bald.
I stopped for lunch there and chatted with a nice young lady who was hiking in the other direction. She was taking time off from her bartending job in Alabama while the students in the college town she worked in were on spring break. Her father was picking her up at Tellico Gap just a mile and a half down from there, so she was killing time enjoying the view and the sunny weather.
Even though the views were stunning, the majority of the day was spent descending down toward the Nantahala River gorge. Along the way I enjoyed great views from Rocky Bald and an exciting descent past Jumpoff Rock where the trail turns at a rocky outcropping with a shear dropoff.
The rest of the way down was a workout for the knees as the descent was relentless for many miles.
On reaching the Nantahala River, this is the site of the Nantahala Outdoor Center which has river rafting and boat rentals. Angelika met me at the general store there. We walked around a bit and watched some kayakers negotiate the course they had set up in the river there. Along the way we ran into Ray, Peanut Butter, and Half Stick and exchanged pleasantries. I'll probably run into them again tomorrow.
3/13 Nantahala River to Stecoah Gap - 13.6 miles
The day started out cool and overcast. Angelika dropped me off at the Nantahala Outdoor Center to resume where she picked me up. The trail begins by ascending steeply heading up to Swim Bald. Along the way is a memorial to a park ranger that was killed in a fire.
At the top there was another excellent view.
If you're like me, you are wondering what's a bald and what's a gap.
A bald is a summit that has no trees, although it can still be covered in vegetation like azelas and mountain laurel. There is disagreement on how balds came to be where you'd expect the area to be forested. It could have been due to grazing habits or that the environment just doesn't support tree growth.
A gap is simply a mountain pass.
Descending down from Swim Bald I lunched at Sassafras Gap. Today I've seen nobody else on the trail. I'm enjoying the solitude and the views even though the day is overcast and the mountains are in mist.
At Locust Cove Gap I finally meet up with a pair of through hikers I first saw on Wayah Bald a couple of days ago. They're taking a break and filtering some water. This reminds me that the last time I saw them the girl acted very impressed that I had a map that I keep in my pocket. It's not the first time someone has remarked on my printed map. Most of the through hikers seem to rely exclusively on an app on their cell phone for navigation. Maybe I'm just old school, but I get all the information I need off my map and I don't have to worry about keeping it charged or dropping it and making it unusable. I also have a compass in my pack just in case...I haven't admitted that to anyone yet.
Angelika meets me at Stecoah Gap where they're doing some significant construction to make a tunnel so hikers don't have to cross the road. The road crossing here is a 55 mph route that sees a fair amount of traffic. It's hard to move across a road quickly when you're carrying a pack. The owner of the RV park told us hikers have been hit trying to cross the road there.
3/14 Stecoah Gap to Fontana Dam Visitors Center - 15.4 miles
Another excellent day for hiking. Once again starting out cool and then warming up into the 70s as the day wore on. There were lots of ups and downs hiking along a section known as Jacob's Ladder, down into Yellow Creek Gap, then back up to Black Gum Gap and Walker Gap.
The highlight of the day was Fontana Dam which is the tallest dam east of the Rockies (about 10 stories high). You can see it on the trail 5 miles before you actually reach it making that last stretch seem longer than you think.
There's a shelter on the shore of the lake which is the nicest I've seen. It could easily sleep 20 people, has showers and flush toilets, and even a solar powered charging station to power up your devices. We met Half Stick there and sat and chatted awhile before heading to the van parked at the visitor center to go back to our camp in Robbinsville.
There's lots of rain in the forecast for the next two days so the plan is to hunker down and wait for good weather before heading into the Smokies which begin on the other side of Fontana Dam.
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